Build 101...top tips for designing bathrooms

Today we are talking bathroom details.  It's an expensive room and you want to get it right the first time.  Changes are going to cost you.  There are lots of decisions to make besides choosing the perfect tiles.

It is very important to have a detailed layout of the room.  You will want to give this plan to the builder, the tiler, and the plumber - all of them.  My old friend graph paper is your best friend here too.  Draw the room to scale, floor plans and elevations (what it looks like when you stand on the floor looking at the wall).  

Its a little time consuming, but its the best way for you to check how something is going to look, and much cheaper than making changes once the fittings are in.  If you have given a tradesman a scale drawing there is no room for misunderstanding, if it isn't what you drew they need to fix it at their cost.

Below is an elevation of one of our bathroom walls, I did similar drawings for each wall with fittings on it, and a floor plan.  

So lets get into it the detail.

Design decisions I would make again:

• height of counter - 800mm
• height of tap spout above basin - 1,050mm
• position of tap - spout centered with plug hole
• counter top and splashback - both caeserstone in white.  Caeserstone can be ordered in a single large piece so there are no tile lines to worry.  The finished look is very clean making the basins and tapware the hero, which is as it should be.  It is also warm to the touch unlike stone, good in winter.
• tap fittings - I love the Brodware City Stik range and used them throughout the house
• basins - Lavabo Solid Surface counter top vessels by CIBO.  Not to deep, they don't splash, and plenty of space for Mr B when he is shaving.
• free standing bath - Kado Lure from Reece Bathrooms

Other decisions to consider:

• Position of plug points for hairdryers etc - check your local code but usually have to be above counter height for electrical safety
• Position of floor waste - check local code again, try and tuck it under the vanity, somewhere you don't see it as soon as you enter the room
• Shower grates - I am a big fan of linear grates rather than a central waste.  Does depend on your tile choice and floor plan.
• If you are using a white counter top make sure it matches the colour of your basins, you would be amazed how many tones of whites there are and they don't all match well.
• Make sure the white of your basins tones in with the colour of your bath and toilet.
• Storage, storage and more storage.  We have a full length double cupboard in the bathroom so we didn't need under counter storage.  Your bathroom will never look tidy unless there is space to pack everything away.  Plan enough storage that you never need have any products standing on the counters unless you are using them.

We made all five million of these decisions when we built four years ago and I learned so much along the way.  For more details you need to know to get the finish you want see the rest of the Build 101 series.

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Build 101...why a walk in robe is a great style choice and a great investment

A walk in robe is not just a luxury item, it's an opportunity to increase the value of your home.  It's a chance to get your build dollars working hard for you, and here is why.

Here is why walk in robes are a good investment:

• Compared to other building expenses it is a relatively small investment in cash and space, and it delivers the wow factor that will have people wanting to live in your house. 
• You don't need much space to create lots of storage and lots of style.
• It's a must have item for buyers of modern luxe homes.
• You will love living with it now, and will reap the financial reward when you sell later. 

You don't need much space, in less than 3m wide you can create your own.  In terms of building costs we are talking around 9 square meters of space.  Much cheaper than putting in an extra room.  Our own walk in is xxxxxx and it's generous both aesthetically and in storage capacity.  The joinery cost around $3,500 not including a premium for the stained oak finish.  

Tailor your finish to your budget, but even with a small budget its possible to deliver a stylish and functional walk in.  See this post by Stylizmo for a glamorous transformation of a small room for around $700.

Have I got you convinced?  See below for my top tips to design your own glam walk in.

Finding inspiration
I don't think you can look past the Italian walk in robe designs (like Poliform) for inspiration.  They are all over both function and form, lots of hanging space, lots of drawers and a crisp, clean contemporary look.  

Plan for all items in your wardrobe
Don't forget to plan storage for items like hats, bags and boots.  

• I love boots so I designed a shelf that is tall enough for mine to fit into.  No more scrounging under coats and dresses for me. 
• Open shelves above hanging height are perfect for storing bags and hats which you don't need easy access to every day.
• Drawers or slide out shelves for accessories, jewellery, belts and ties.
• Extra shoe space if you have a large collection.
• Storage space for handbags and hats can be set above hanging space as you will use it less often

His and Hers sides
Our walk in has two sides, His (Mr B) and Her's (moi), and because our clothes are different I designed them slightly differently too.

For him -

• No full length hanging space, but 3 hanging areas just tall enough to hang suits and shirts.  We even hang t-shirts there is so much room.
• A large pull out pants rack with space for shoes underneath.  (see how to make your own here)
• 8 generous drawers, plenty of space for storing ties, belts and even shoes.

For her (moi ofcourse) - 

• 2 long hanging sections with double drawers below.   I designed the height to fit mid length dresses and coats.  Most of us don't have wardrobes bursting with ballgowns requiring full length hanging space anymore.
• Shoe shelves and a boot shelf.  Ladies shoes are pretty enough to display and they definitely need their own space.

Take storage right up to the ceiling

We used every inch of our 2.7m ceiling height.  

The area above the hanging space has been divided into two wide shelves.  

• The lower shelf is easy enough to reach and perfect for storing less used items like hats, bags, or chunky sweaters.  
• The higher shelf is great for storing blankets, seasonal bedding and in a happy coincidence are the perfect size for suitcases.  

If you don't plan to build all the way to the ceiling, make sure there is enough space on top of your wardrobe for baskets to store seasonal items in neatly.

Finish 

Our walk in robe is finished in black stained oak, gorgeous but definitely a luxury item.  I think it has been totally worth the extra cost, its simple but feels luxurious, glamorous but with a crisp masculine touch.  I love the contrast of the chrome drawer pulls, a tiny bit luxe but not too girly.

The dark wood is lovely in the small space, it makes it moody and intimate.  To achieve something similar on a smaller budget, black painted wood or a good dark veneer would be very effective.

In this budget diy on Stylizmo, Nina has opted for white on white, and doesn't it look amazing.

The more hanging space the better

More is more, I like hanging everything, even t-shirts if I can.

In a choice between extra hanging space and extra drawers choose hanging space, better for your budget too.

Our walk in robe is still one of my favourite spaces.  I get that movie star feeling every time I use it and I would do it all over again tomorrow.  But even better I know it was a great investment in the value of our home.

It's not just about how lovely its going to be to live with now, you will get financial pay back later.  Hope I have convinced you to get planning.  I am going to share the measurements and finishes in my walk in robe in another post.  Until then, have a look at Build 101 for other post to help make your build experience that little bit easier.

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Build 101...curtains

Today in Build 101 we are talking curtains, or window furnishings as the decorators call them.  You may think all you need to do is choose the fabric, but as always, there are more than a few other decisions to be made.  

Design decisions I would make again

• Ceiling mounted S-track or ripplefold track system
• Double curtains: unlined linen in front, black out curtain behind
• Floor to ceiling generous curtains always always always

Decisions to consider:

• Curtains should not block door openings when stacked open.
• Make sure curtains that get a lot of sun are fully lined, are made from sun resistant fabrics, or can stack right off the window.
• Should curtain tracks be recessed or mounted directly onto ceiling
• Treatments to block light out when you want to sleep

We have a modern home with wide floor to ceiling windows and door openings.  Wide floor to ceiling openings mean that curtain rod systems have to be ceiling mounted.  In a traditional home there are many options for rods, tracks and blinds.  Decision 1 you never knew you would need to make.

Curtains in traditional rooms stack to each side of the window, this means your curtain rod can have a center support across a wide opening.  In our modern home I wanted extra wide curtains to stack against the walls on a single side of the room.  This means the curtain panel must be able pull right across the track.  Another reason that a ceiling mounted track is more suitable.      Decision 2.

I wanted the curtains to stack off the windows where possible.  Sustained sunlight is not good for fabrics, especially silks and linens.  Window stacking space is really something to consider when the house is being designed.

I also knew I wanted linen, great swathes of linen with the sunlight glowing through them.  Such a romantic look.  But I need my bedrooms to be dark, I don't love light when I am trying to sleep.  Our curtain company came up with a great solution.  They suggested a double ripplefold track with two separate curtains.  An unlined linen curtain in front, a black out curtain in white behind (see images above).  Its perfect, the linen curtains can be drawn when I want a soft dappled light or privacy, and the blackout curtains are closed at night and are an extra thermal layer in winter.  The double curtain system was only marginally more expensive than buying lined curtains and I love they way they function, build dollars well spent.  Decision 3

The ripplefold tracks are neatly mounted onto the ceiling, very unobtrusive, and curtains can be pulled from one side right across the opening, and also stack on a single side.  We could have recessed the tracks into the ceiling by dropping the ceilings slightly, creating a shadowline that hides the track mechanism.  To be honest I didn't think about it at the time, its something I would consider in the future if there isn't a large cost and you don't lose much height.
If you lose to much height I wouldn't do it, a high ceiling will win out every time in my book.

See what I mean about all those little decisions you have to make?

For more in the Build 101 series click here, where I share my experience to make your build just that little bit easier.

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Build 101...modern gas fireplace

In today's Build 101 I am talking fireplaces.  I love our fireplace, in fact of all the many things we have built in our home this is my favourite.  You can read all about my decision to gas over wood fire here, in this post we are going to look at measurements and materials.

I would absolutely specify this glass sided fireplace again.  I love that you can see the flames from the side (see below).  Useful because our modular chaise runs along the fireplace wall, we wouldn't see much of the flames in a more traditional unit.

My husband did almost all the building for this unit himself (he is pretty amazing).  He built the floating shelf and the wooden fireplace hood or chimney breast.  We got the gas fireplace supplier to install the fireplace and we also employed a plasterer to do the cement finish render.

I wanted the floating shelf to run seamlessly across the room, I did not want the fireplace lip to come over this edge or interfere with the sight line in any way.  If this is what you want you must specify a recessed fire tray, the metal plate the stones fit on.  The suppliers can do it but it might not be on the show room floor.  Make sure you get what you want and don't take no for an answer.

Design decisions I would make again:

• Glass sided fireplace
• Recessed fire tray
• Shelf that runs the full width of the room.
• Height of shelf 50cm - slightly higher than the chaise on the sofa 41cm
• Depth of shelf was made as narrow as possible but had to be deep enough to hold the gas unit.  Our shelf is 57cm with the plaster.  
• The fireplace hood is 140cm wide by 141cm high.  I did not follow the size of the firebox which is actually far smaller, but a smaller hood would have looked silly.  Specify your surround to suit your space and aesthetic, not simply to clad the unit.

Decisions to consider:

• A gas fireplace needs an electric switch to turn on.  We tucked ours discreetly on the right hand side of the chimney, out of sight from the main living room.  
• The fireplace also needs to be plugged in.  Our plug point is hidden in the wall cavity below the shelf.   We have a sneaky seamless panel that looks like its part of the wall.
• Use this cavity space to hide other cables and power points.
• Don't forget to consider the thickness of the finished surface when you are designing.  You could be using plaster, wood or a stone product and they are all different.  
• The cement finish is porous and will mark  occasionally with time and use.  We are happy with that, if this isn't for you make sure you seal the cement, or choose another finish.
• We were warned that the cement might crack with the heat from the fire, it hasn't happened to us.
• Use samples to test the cement finish colour.  We found a dramatic difference between sealed and unsealder, and also between the actual product and the colour charts.  
• Consider the weight the shelf will take when finished (see below)

Getting the cement render done was problematic.  Cement render products pay attention now because you need to up your game.  The product we really liked is based in Queensland, had no suppliers in NSW nor any way we could see their product.  They don't sell samples and only sell to professional plasterers.  No surprises that we didn't use this product.
Contacting the companies who specialise in cement finishes brought no joy either.  Most never got back to us but we did get one quote for $6,000.  For a single shelf which required a bag of product costing around $100 and a day of labour tops.  Madness.

In the end Mr B had to drive a long way to buy a pack of cement from another supplier who couldn't recommend any trades.  We ended up hiring a local plasterer who was willing to give it a go, and didn't mind that the job was about 6 hours long split over three days.  At the end of the day I love the result and it cost us around $1,000 to apply.  So yes I would do this again, but with the proviso that it may need persistance to get it done.

The floating shelf is a very clever design of Mr B's.  See blog post on the construction here.  We wanted it to be strong enough for people to sit on, or for a child to stand on.  Just in case either of these things should happen, not because that is how we envision it being used.  The shelf is cantilevered off battons below it that are pinned directly to the wall battons, very strong.  This means that the space below the shelf is not quite as deep as the shelf itself, but you don't notice.  The eye is totally tricked.

For more in the Build 101 series click here: lots of tips, tricks and information to make your build decisions just that little bit easier.

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Build 101...living lightly on the grid - using solar panels to reduce your energy footprint

Having a light energy footprint is good good thing, good for the planet, good for resale (people are thinking about these issues more and more) and good for your wallet.  Win win I tell you.

When we built two years ago, reducing our energy footprint was an important part of the plan and we incorporated these energy saving feautures into our home:

• Double glazed glass, insulated floors, walls and roof.  Insulation to keep us warm in winter and cool in summer
• Windows designed to encourage natural airflow throughout the home.  
• This works far better than I thought.  If we have been out on a hot day and the house has been shut up we open our bedroom door upstairs and a door downstairs and you can feel the cool breeze flowing down the staircase.  The whole house is cooled naturally in ten minutes.
• Ceiling fans instead of an air conditioner.  
• Solar panels to harness the great natural sunlight we all enjoy for free
• A shaded central courtyard opening onto all our living spaces - provides a cool summer space which cools all our living spaces.

Did we survive without air conditioning? 

Its been three years and in that time Sydneyhas had record heat waves.  Did we survive without air conditioning?  Yes!  There were a few super hot days, but with the ceiling fans on and the windows open we were fine, even on the hottest, most airless of nights.

Anybody who has paid an air conditioning bill will tell you just how expensive that is, so designing a house that doesn’t need any has been a fabulous investment.  Investing in solar panels has been another!

Fitting solar panels

Fitting solar panels on our home was easy to do.  With a largely flat roof (we have a small incline to handle rain water) the panels were easy to position in a north facing direction and are not shaded at all.

Solar panels need to be correctly angled to maximise the energy you can harness.  The angle is different depending on your latitude, and whether you want to save energy in summer (for air conditioning) or winter (on heating).  A rough guide is your angle should be your latitude +10 degrees for summer savings, - 10 degrees for winter savings

You also need to make sure you install enough panels to make a difference to your power bill.   Looking back we could have installed double, but at the end of an expensive build we spent what we could afford.

These are all considerations that will depend on your property and budget, solar installation professionals can help you work through the considerations.

Are the power bills down?

Yes, perhaps not as much as I would have liked, but it definitely helps. 

At the moment we feed the power we generate back into the grid and are paid for the contribution.  This is not a winning deal for us as the amount we are paid is far less than the amount we are charged per unit.  Even though (personal gripe) the power companies can sell green energy for top dollar prices. 

I would prefer to store the energy we generate in a battery that we use instead of drawing on the grid, but the battery technology is still expensive and not necessarily efficient.  An investment for the future.

It’s very satisfying to check the meter on a hot day and see just how much energy we converted to power for the day!

Types of panel

We installed the tilted solar panels on top of our roof that you are probably familiar with.  They are on the top of our largely flat roof and we can’t see them at all which is great because they don’t interfere with the look of the house.

But if you have, or are planning, a tile roof, Monier produces a solar roof tile that can be laid as part of their tiled roof systems, incorporated seamlessly into the roofline.  What a great idea!  The efficiency will depend on the angle of your roofline and how much of it faces in the right direction but it’s definitely an idea worth investigating.

Having lived in our house for 2 years I can tell you that our west facing walls get blisteringly hot in summer.  We faced the house away from the west heat and only have a drying yard on that side.  On some summer days its almost to hot to go out and hang up the washing, it certainly feels hot enough to fry and egg, and the wall finish takes a pounding from the sun.  Imagine if we had clad the entire wall in solar panels – no maintenance and it would generate energy.  Perhaps a solution for the future

At the end of the day all these features have been very worthwhile, we have a house that lives lightly on the grid, and is comfortable for us and our pockets.  We should all be future proofing our homes for energy efficiency.

For  more in the Build 101 series: where I share my experiences to make your build decisions easier, click here.

Image inspiration via Houzz: top, bottom

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Build 101...favourite floor finishes

As part of the Build 101 series I am sharing my favourite products with you.  Products that I would totally specify again, products that were worth what we spent on them, products I would recommend again and again. 
I thought I would kick off with floors.  Floors are a large investment and the base of your scheme, they need to be right.  This is the place to invest in good quality finishes that won't date and will wear well.

Smoked and Black Oak by Royal Oak Floors.
If I had to choose one luxe item to spend money on it would be these wooden floors. They set the tone of our home, they feel lovely underfoot, and they are the single most commented on item when people come around for the first time.  

The smoked and black colour is fabulous, very good at hiding sand and muddy little footprints.  Not that my floor is dirty, but I don't want to notice every leaf that blows in.  In a previous house we had polished walnut stained floors which showed every spec of dust, never again.  
The soft tone adds instant texture to our room, especially the large open spaces, and it works as well with cooler grey tones as it does with warmer colours.

In the image above you can see how beautifully the wood tones in with bedroom carpets and the bathroom tiles.

Cavalier Bremworth pure wool carpet - in overtones buckskin
These carpets were a great value buy.  Wool comes in a wide price range, I adored the top end of the Cavalier Bremworth range but they were just to far out of my budget.  What I specifically like about the Overtones range is they are not a flat colour.  Flat colour carpets can be quite dominating, or very bland.  Overtones as a small variation in its weave, just enough to be easy on the eye.  The variation also means that any little marks and spills are hard to see.  
The best reason to choose wool is how easy it is to clean, much easier than sisal or synthetics.  We had a large accident in one of the bedrooms and it cleaned right away.  It took a lot of Mr Nifty and elbow grease but it is totally gone.  Fab for homes with children and pets!

Originally I wanted sisal in the bedrooms, but sisal has issues with water marks and staining, something to consider when you are designing a family home.  I had a sisal sample and Miss E said "please don't get that one mummy, I need something soft to sit on when I play".  Good point and I am glad I went with wool.

In the image above the Overtones carpet is in the centre and you can see how well it works with the Pietra Grey tiles in the en suite bathroom, and the linen curtains in the master bedroom.

Tips and tricks:

• If you lay carpet pay up to get the best quality thickest underlay you can afford.  You will have this carpet a long time and it makes a huge difference to the feel under foot.
• Get samples of your floor finishes and carry them around with you when you are choosing all your other finishes.  Everything needs to work with your floors from paint colours, to furniture fabrics, to your bathroom fittings.
• Limit the floor finishes you choose to create a harmonious visual flow between your rooms. In our Sydney home we have wood in the living areas, and the same carpet in all the bedrooms.  
• Check that finishes read well together so areas where they are adjoining look good eg where the wooden floor stops and carpet begins, and where the carpet meets the bathroom tiles.

For more advice on building see the rest of the Build 101 series here, where I share my experience to make your build experience that little bit easier.

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Build 101... top ten building tips

Today I am kicking off a new series called Design the Perfect Finish.  I am aiming to share the useful things we learned when we built our own home.  Things you need to know when you do your own build or renovation, my favourite products that I would specify again today, floor plans that really work, measurements for things like the height of the tap above the basin (bet you didn't know you had to choose that), and how to deal with your trades.  There are a lot of decisions to make in any build, I want to give you confidence in your choices by sharing what I know works for us.

Today's post is one I wrote two years ago, but when I reread it I thought it was worth sharing again, these tips are the starting place for good planning.  So enjoy, and pop back soon as I tackle topics like my fave floor choices, living with solar energy, and tips you need to know when you design a bathroom.  

1.  Make an inspiration board & study the details
With Pinterest inspiration boards have never been so easy, but go old school with a paper file if that works better for you.  Make a different board for each area of the house: kitchen, bathroom, living room, laundry, playroom, whatever you are building.

Once you have pinned all your favourites take a step back and study them all together.  You will start to see a theme running through your selections.  Spot the similarities and study the details and make sure you include these key elements in your final design.  This is a sample of my kitchen board - no surprises that I have a black kitchen island, marble top, wood floors and white walls.

2.  Work with an interior designer or architect in the concept stage
Consult an expert to get your spaces and flow working well before the build starts.  This is an investment well worth making if you want to get it right first time and you want a polished look!  Make your inspiration boards first, they will make it much easier to explain the look and feel you are aiming for.
This is the time to talk about storage and where it should be, light sources, types of lighting, even the position of the light switches.  Be specific about how you plan to use spaces, the flow from indoors to outdoors, and where your north light comes from.
3.  Create a sample pack and take it everywhere
Try decide on all major finishes in the concept stage: floors, bathroom tiles, kitchen joinery colours and counter tops.  Collect samples of all items and put them in a box in the back of your car.  As you select other finishes make sure they tie in with the elements you have already decided on.  A limited palette of complimentary materials will give your design good continuity and stronger visual impact.

4.  Make a non-negotiable list
Unless you have a bottomless wallet you are going to have to make budget choices somewhere.  Decide on your non-negotiable list upfront, for me it was my bathroom tiles and wooden floors.  When you need to cut costs make them elsewhere first, this way you end up with the items you really want.

5.  Use the same fittings throughout 
Choose the same taps for all your bathrooms, use the same floor finishes throughout the house,  apply a consistent colour palette in all your finishes.  Continuity will make your house feel well designed, and buying in bulk is a good opportunity to negotiate a good price.

6.  Make your cash work harder
- Shop around for the best prices, locally and online.
- Never get less than three quotes for any job or item.
- Ask for discounts when you buy, tell the retailer you are building and could be coming back for more supplies.  
- Shop at auctions for really good deals, we bought solar panels with installation for a great price on Grays Online. 

7.  Ask for recommendations
All our best trades, our builder, and many of our suppliers were recommended by people who had also built or renovated.  There is no substitute for a personal reference.
This also applies to the many professionals you will need certificates from like engineers, certifiers, garden designers & traffic authorities.

8.  Plan, plan and plan some more
Graph paper just became your best friend.  Draw out your rooms, measure the furniture and draw them onto your floor plan.  Do elevations of the kitchen and built in joinery.  Its not hard, you just need a ruler, graph paper and your measurements.  Your builder will think you are crazy but you will get a preview of what the space will look like, and it will help you to be very specific about what you want. 

With a detailed plan there is no room for error, you know what you are getting and the builder knows exactly what to do.  You want to get it right the first time, undoing building work costs time and money and is the fastest way to go over budget and over schedule.
When I designed the bathrooms I specified everything from the exact position of the taps to the starting point in the tile pattern, the end result was just as I planned it.

9.  Stick to your guns
If I had a dollar for every time a trade or supplier told me "it can't be done that way" I would be a millionaire.  Trades like to do what is easiest and what they know best.  This often does not tie up with the image you saw in a glossy magazine.
A friend gave me sage advice, "if you make the choice you can live with it being your mistake, if you were talked into something you didn't want the end result will frustrate you for ever".

10.  Read your contract in detail before you sign it
Make sure your building contract is very detailed, it needs to include specifics of every fitting and finish choice, the electrics and plumbing plans down to the position of every light switch and plug point, and labour for every aspect of the job.  You want to be sure the quote includes everything you want.  This is your final opportunity to check that your budget is on target.  If you have planned well there shouldn't be to many surprises.

Take your time and make sure each line item is right before you sign.  Once you have signed every change is called a variation, and you are charged an administration cost for every variation made.  This is a very preventable cost you can keep to a minimum.

Building is a huge investment in capital, time and emotional energy and it is absolutely worth taking the time to get things right the first time.
I always dreamed of building our own home.  Of course, because life never happens as plans we didn't just build, no, "surprise!" we had a baby too.  It was a HUGE year.  We learned a lot, we cried a lot, we didn't sleep a lot, but in the end I love my new home and expanded family - a lot!

It really doesn't matter how big or small your build is, what matters is that you are happy with the end result.  I hope this series makes your own build just that little bit easier.

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