Build 101...top tips for designing bathrooms

Today we are talking bathroom details.  It's an expensive room and you want to get it right the first time.  Changes are going to cost you.  There are lots of decisions to make besides choosing the perfect tiles.

It is very important to have a detailed layout of the room.  You will want to give this plan to the builder, the tiler, and the plumber - all of them.  My old friend graph paper is your best friend here too.  Draw the room to scale, floor plans and elevations (what it looks like when you stand on the floor looking at the wall).  

Its a little time consuming, but its the best way for you to check how something is going to look, and much cheaper than making changes once the fittings are in.  If you have given a tradesman a scale drawing there is no room for misunderstanding, if it isn't what you drew they need to fix it at their cost.

Below is an elevation of one of our bathroom walls, I did similar drawings for each wall with fittings on it, and a floor plan.  

So lets get into it the detail.

Design decisions I would make again:

• height of counter - 800mm
• height of tap spout above basin - 1,050mm
• position of tap - spout centered with plug hole
• counter top and splashback - both caeserstone in white.  Caeserstone can be ordered in a single large piece so there are no tile lines to worry.  The finished look is very clean making the basins and tapware the hero, which is as it should be.  It is also warm to the touch unlike stone, good in winter.
• tap fittings - I love the Brodware City Stik range and used them throughout the house
• basins - Lavabo Solid Surface counter top vessels by CIBO.  Not to deep, they don't splash, and plenty of space for Mr B when he is shaving.
• free standing bath - Kado Lure from Reece Bathrooms

Other decisions to consider:

• Position of plug points for hairdryers etc - check your local code but usually have to be above counter height for electrical safety
• Position of floor waste - check local code again, try and tuck it under the vanity, somewhere you don't see it as soon as you enter the room
• Shower grates - I am a big fan of linear grates rather than a central waste.  Does depend on your tile choice and floor plan.
• If you are using a white counter top make sure it matches the colour of your basins, you would be amazed how many tones of whites there are and they don't all match well.
• Make sure the white of your basins tones in with the colour of your bath and toilet.
• Storage, storage and more storage.  We have a full length double cupboard in the bathroom so we didn't need under counter storage.  Your bathroom will never look tidy unless there is space to pack everything away.  Plan enough storage that you never need have any products standing on the counters unless you are using them.

We made all five million of these decisions when we built four years ago and I learned so much along the way.  For more details you need to know to get the finish you want see the rest of the Build 101 series.

Read More

Build 101...why a walk in robe is a great style choice and a great investment

A walk in robe is not just a luxury item, it's an opportunity to increase the value of your home.  It's a chance to get your build dollars working hard for you, and here is why.

Here is why walk in robes are a good investment:

• Compared to other building expenses it is a relatively small investment in cash and space, and it delivers the wow factor that will have people wanting to live in your house. 
• You don't need much space to create lots of storage and lots of style.
• It's a must have item for buyers of modern luxe homes.
• You will love living with it now, and will reap the financial reward when you sell later. 

You don't need much space, in less than 3m wide you can create your own.  In terms of building costs we are talking around 9 square meters of space.  Much cheaper than putting in an extra room.  Our own walk in is xxxxxx and it's generous both aesthetically and in storage capacity.  The joinery cost around $3,500 not including a premium for the stained oak finish.  

Tailor your finish to your budget, but even with a small budget its possible to deliver a stylish and functional walk in.  See this post by Stylizmo for a glamorous transformation of a small room for around $700.

Have I got you convinced?  See below for my top tips to design your own glam walk in.

Finding inspiration
I don't think you can look past the Italian walk in robe designs (like Poliform) for inspiration.  They are all over both function and form, lots of hanging space, lots of drawers and a crisp, clean contemporary look.  

Plan for all items in your wardrobe
Don't forget to plan storage for items like hats, bags and boots.  

• I love boots so I designed a shelf that is tall enough for mine to fit into.  No more scrounging under coats and dresses for me. 
• Open shelves above hanging height are perfect for storing bags and hats which you don't need easy access to every day.
• Drawers or slide out shelves for accessories, jewellery, belts and ties.
• Extra shoe space if you have a large collection.
• Storage space for handbags and hats can be set above hanging space as you will use it less often

His and Hers sides
Our walk in has two sides, His (Mr B) and Her's (moi), and because our clothes are different I designed them slightly differently too.

For him -

• No full length hanging space, but 3 hanging areas just tall enough to hang suits and shirts.  We even hang t-shirts there is so much room.
• A large pull out pants rack with space for shoes underneath.  (see how to make your own here)
• 8 generous drawers, plenty of space for storing ties, belts and even shoes.

For her (moi ofcourse) - 

• 2 long hanging sections with double drawers below.   I designed the height to fit mid length dresses and coats.  Most of us don't have wardrobes bursting with ballgowns requiring full length hanging space anymore.
• Shoe shelves and a boot shelf.  Ladies shoes are pretty enough to display and they definitely need their own space.

Take storage right up to the ceiling

We used every inch of our 2.7m ceiling height.  

The area above the hanging space has been divided into two wide shelves.  

• The lower shelf is easy enough to reach and perfect for storing less used items like hats, bags, or chunky sweaters.  
• The higher shelf is great for storing blankets, seasonal bedding and in a happy coincidence are the perfect size for suitcases.  

If you don't plan to build all the way to the ceiling, make sure there is enough space on top of your wardrobe for baskets to store seasonal items in neatly.

Finish 

Our walk in robe is finished in black stained oak, gorgeous but definitely a luxury item.  I think it has been totally worth the extra cost, its simple but feels luxurious, glamorous but with a crisp masculine touch.  I love the contrast of the chrome drawer pulls, a tiny bit luxe but not too girly.

The dark wood is lovely in the small space, it makes it moody and intimate.  To achieve something similar on a smaller budget, black painted wood or a good dark veneer would be very effective.

In this budget diy on Stylizmo, Nina has opted for white on white, and doesn't it look amazing.

The more hanging space the better

More is more, I like hanging everything, even t-shirts if I can.

In a choice between extra hanging space and extra drawers choose hanging space, better for your budget too.

Our walk in robe is still one of my favourite spaces.  I get that movie star feeling every time I use it and I would do it all over again tomorrow.  But even better I know it was a great investment in the value of our home.

It's not just about how lovely its going to be to live with now, you will get financial pay back later.  Hope I have convinced you to get planning.  I am going to share the measurements and finishes in my walk in robe in another post.  Until then, have a look at Build 101 for other post to help make your build experience that little bit easier.

Read More

Build 101...curtains

Today in Build 101 we are talking curtains, or window furnishings as the decorators call them.  You may think all you need to do is choose the fabric, but as always, there are more than a few other decisions to be made.  

Design decisions I would make again

• Ceiling mounted S-track or ripplefold track system
• Double curtains: unlined linen in front, black out curtain behind
• Floor to ceiling generous curtains always always always

Decisions to consider:

• Curtains should not block door openings when stacked open.
• Make sure curtains that get a lot of sun are fully lined, are made from sun resistant fabrics, or can stack right off the window.
• Should curtain tracks be recessed or mounted directly onto ceiling
• Treatments to block light out when you want to sleep

We have a modern home with wide floor to ceiling windows and door openings.  Wide floor to ceiling openings mean that curtain rod systems have to be ceiling mounted.  In a traditional home there are many options for rods, tracks and blinds.  Decision 1 you never knew you would need to make.

Curtains in traditional rooms stack to each side of the window, this means your curtain rod can have a center support across a wide opening.  In our modern home I wanted extra wide curtains to stack against the walls on a single side of the room.  This means the curtain panel must be able pull right across the track.  Another reason that a ceiling mounted track is more suitable.      Decision 2.

I wanted the curtains to stack off the windows where possible.  Sustained sunlight is not good for fabrics, especially silks and linens.  Window stacking space is really something to consider when the house is being designed.

I also knew I wanted linen, great swathes of linen with the sunlight glowing through them.  Such a romantic look.  But I need my bedrooms to be dark, I don't love light when I am trying to sleep.  Our curtain company came up with a great solution.  They suggested a double ripplefold track with two separate curtains.  An unlined linen curtain in front, a black out curtain in white behind (see images above).  Its perfect, the linen curtains can be drawn when I want a soft dappled light or privacy, and the blackout curtains are closed at night and are an extra thermal layer in winter.  The double curtain system was only marginally more expensive than buying lined curtains and I love they way they function, build dollars well spent.  Decision 3

The ripplefold tracks are neatly mounted onto the ceiling, very unobtrusive, and curtains can be pulled from one side right across the opening, and also stack on a single side.  We could have recessed the tracks into the ceiling by dropping the ceilings slightly, creating a shadowline that hides the track mechanism.  To be honest I didn't think about it at the time, its something I would consider in the future if there isn't a large cost and you don't lose much height.
If you lose to much height I wouldn't do it, a high ceiling will win out every time in my book.

See what I mean about all those little decisions you have to make?

For more in the Build 101 series click here, where I share my experience to make your build just that little bit easier.

Read More

Build 101...modern gas fireplace

In today's Build 101 I am talking fireplaces.  I love our fireplace, in fact of all the many things we have built in our home this is my favourite.  You can read all about my decision to gas over wood fire here, in this post we are going to look at measurements and materials.

I would absolutely specify this glass sided fireplace again.  I love that you can see the flames from the side (see below).  Useful because our modular chaise runs along the fireplace wall, we wouldn't see much of the flames in a more traditional unit.

My husband did almost all the building for this unit himself (he is pretty amazing).  He built the floating shelf and the wooden fireplace hood or chimney breast.  We got the gas fireplace supplier to install the fireplace and we also employed a plasterer to do the cement finish render.

I wanted the floating shelf to run seamlessly across the room, I did not want the fireplace lip to come over this edge or interfere with the sight line in any way.  If this is what you want you must specify a recessed fire tray, the metal plate the stones fit on.  The suppliers can do it but it might not be on the show room floor.  Make sure you get what you want and don't take no for an answer.

Design decisions I would make again:

• Glass sided fireplace
• Recessed fire tray
• Shelf that runs the full width of the room.
• Height of shelf 50cm - slightly higher than the chaise on the sofa 41cm
• Depth of shelf was made as narrow as possible but had to be deep enough to hold the gas unit.  Our shelf is 57cm with the plaster.  
• The fireplace hood is 140cm wide by 141cm high.  I did not follow the size of the firebox which is actually far smaller, but a smaller hood would have looked silly.  Specify your surround to suit your space and aesthetic, not simply to clad the unit.

Decisions to consider:

• A gas fireplace needs an electric switch to turn on.  We tucked ours discreetly on the right hand side of the chimney, out of sight from the main living room.  
• The fireplace also needs to be plugged in.  Our plug point is hidden in the wall cavity below the shelf.   We have a sneaky seamless panel that looks like its part of the wall.
• Use this cavity space to hide other cables and power points.
• Don't forget to consider the thickness of the finished surface when you are designing.  You could be using plaster, wood or a stone product and they are all different.  
• The cement finish is porous and will mark  occasionally with time and use.  We are happy with that, if this isn't for you make sure you seal the cement, or choose another finish.
• We were warned that the cement might crack with the heat from the fire, it hasn't happened to us.
• Use samples to test the cement finish colour.  We found a dramatic difference between sealed and unsealder, and also between the actual product and the colour charts.  
• Consider the weight the shelf will take when finished (see below)

Getting the cement render done was problematic.  Cement render products pay attention now because you need to up your game.  The product we really liked is based in Queensland, had no suppliers in NSW nor any way we could see their product.  They don't sell samples and only sell to professional plasterers.  No surprises that we didn't use this product.
Contacting the companies who specialise in cement finishes brought no joy either.  Most never got back to us but we did get one quote for $6,000.  For a single shelf which required a bag of product costing around $100 and a day of labour tops.  Madness.

In the end Mr B had to drive a long way to buy a pack of cement from another supplier who couldn't recommend any trades.  We ended up hiring a local plasterer who was willing to give it a go, and didn't mind that the job was about 6 hours long split over three days.  At the end of the day I love the result and it cost us around $1,000 to apply.  So yes I would do this again, but with the proviso that it may need persistance to get it done.

The floating shelf is a very clever design of Mr B's.  See blog post on the construction here.  We wanted it to be strong enough for people to sit on, or for a child to stand on.  Just in case either of these things should happen, not because that is how we envision it being used.  The shelf is cantilevered off battons below it that are pinned directly to the wall battons, very strong.  This means that the space below the shelf is not quite as deep as the shelf itself, but you don't notice.  The eye is totally tricked.

For more in the Build 101 series click here: lots of tips, tricks and information to make your build decisions just that little bit easier.

Read More